Stroker kit a komprese

[MarauderZ28]

Chci se zeptat až napáchám do bloku stroker kit údajně se zvýší komprese až na to nasadím kompresor poleze to ještě nahoru, je nějaká možnost jak jí snížit ? třeba vybráním pístů (fréza) ale jak se to dá spočítat jakou vlastně budu mít ? ...

[leon4x4]

Chci se zeptat až napáchám do bloku stroker kit údajně se zvýší komprese až na to nasadím kompresor poleze to ještě nahoru, je nějaká možnost jak jí snížit ? třeba vybráním pístů (fréza) ale jak se to dá spočítat jakou vlastně budu mít ? ...

Spočítat se to sice dá, ale to by jsi musel měřit a měřit a měřit a pak spočítat. A co třeba udělaj to prakticky? Dej píst do horní úvratě, lej tam odměrkou olej až po okraj závitu svíčky, pak otoč klikou a nastav píst do spodní úvratě a dolej zase do závitu. Tím získáš naprosto přesnou představu o oběmu celkovém a při stlačení a z toho vypočteš kompresní poměr.
Pokud chceš mít "BLOWER" tak místo zvyšování komprese musíš jít opačnou cestou a neříkej mi, že stroker kit se nedá koupit i s nižší kompresí než je sériová? Čím větší komprese tím míň by to šlo totiž přeplňovat. Takže to chce promyslet.

[Lukaash]

jj ... Dej píst do horní úvratě, lej tam odměrkou olej až po okraj závitu svíčky, pak otoč klikou a nastav píst do spodní úvratě a dolej zase do závitu. Tím získáš naprosto přesnou představu o objemu celkovém a při stlačení a z toho vypočteš kompresní poměr.

[leon4x4]

jj ... Dej píst do horní úvratě, lej tam odměrkou olej až po okraj závitu svíčky, pak otoč klikou a nastav píst do spodní úvratě a dolej zase do závitu. Tím získáš naprosto přesnou představu o oběmu celkovém a při stlačení a z toho vypočteš kompresní poměr.

Neopisuj nebo dostaneš poznámku do žákovský

[MarauderZ28]

tak se bavím s nějakejma chytrolínama na US webu tak schválně jo plesknu to sem, jeden píše to co Leon o pístech a druhej ať z 5,7 litru nedělám 6,5 litr, ale jen 6,2 litr, že to bude lepčejší .... Jo nekoukejte na chyby

Hello guys, I am about to rebuild my engine. I am thinking of this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMALL-CH ... dZViewItem I would like to know your opinions, whether you think it is a good kit or no. Do you also think it is a good idea to use it with Powerdyne supercharger 6PSI@14PSI

Pistons need to be dished, compression would be too high for boosting. you want to be around 9:1 or less if you plan on boosting craploads.

My opinion is to skip the 396, especially if you are going to have a blower, don't trade skirt length and put the pin up in the oil ring just for an extra 12 cubes...build a 383.

[Taboo]

The other guy's absolutely right. If you really want the engine to last, the 383 is definitely a better option, especially if boosted. As for the compression ratio, static compression isn't as important as dynamic compression affected by valve timing, 'though anywhere between 8 and 9:1 will do. In the long run, it's just a compromise between bottom end torque and maximum boost you're going to be able to run before reaching the detonation limit of the engine. In theory, although two engines may have the exact same static compression, their dynamic compression may be completely different. However, it's quite impossible to predict which engine is going to make more power since that's going to depend on the mass of air and fuel mixed in the correct ratio you're going to be able to stuff in the cylinders under boost. That's why a correctly chosen camshaft will play a crucial role in the build-up as well.

[MarauderZ28]

díky moc motor v takovýmhle rozsahu dělám poprví v životě a i když sem se vybavil všemožnejma publikacema jsou věci který mi nejsou úplně jasný ...

[leon4x4]

The other guy's absolutely right. If you really want the engine to last, the 383 is definitely a better option, especially if boosted. As for the compression ratio, static compression isn't as important as dynamic compression affected by valve timing, 'though anywhere between 8 and 9:1 will do. In the long run, it's just a compromise between bottom end torque and maximum boost you're going to be able to run before reaching the detonation limit of the engine. In theory, although two engines may have the exact same static compression, their dynamic compression may be completely different. However, it's quite impossible to predict which engine is going to make more power since that's going to depend on the mass of air and fuel mixed in the correct ratio you're going to be able to stuff in the cylinders under boost. That's why a correctly chosen camshaft will play a crucial role in the build-up as well.

Right, i can see the difference between the static and dynamic compression on the compression tester. My static compresion should be something like 8,5:1 but there is something like 11,2-11,5BAR on gauge when testing But this is the dynamic compresion (but still on very different conditions comparing to real engine run)

Nicméně Maraudere myslím že i statická komprese ti něco poví a těch 0,5L oleje se na to dá obětovat ne?

[MarauderZ28]

klidně naleju do toho friťák

[Taboo]

OK, I'm going to save you some oil and work ... Find out the volume of the combustion chamber, piston dish, deck height and head gasket thickness by bringing the piston to TDC and measuring the volume of oil you dump in - just like Charlie said. There's no need to bring the piston down to BDC and going through the same shit again, though. Just calculate the volume of the cylinder using the known bore and stroke numbers, then just add the volume of the oil you poured in when the piston was in TDC - and you'll instantly know the volume of the cylinder + head when the piston is in BDC. Then you can, of course, calculate the static compression...

All those HPBooks are very useful, I think I've got them all... I'm sure I have thousands of dollars invested just in books. One can't ever know too much...

[MarauderZ28]

ještě mě napadá, jelikož určitě je dobrý nechat pořed "rebuildem" sejmout hlavu a blok tím taky půjde komprese nahoru mělo by se s tím počítat, vím, že se používaj tlustčí těsnění nebo se dávaj i dvě na sebe (blééé) ale určo je lepší cesta, tohle mi přijde u takhle překoňovanýho motoru jako docela slabý místo (těsnění) vím, že se nechá udělat na zakázku měděný - je to dobrá volba ?

[DC]

na výkon, na kterej to stavíš je myslim měděný už docela potřeba
taky se pak dávaj silnější šrouby do hlavy aby udržely ten tlak...

normální, nebo dokonce dvě těsnění jsou opravdu nejslabším místem kde to může fouknout

[leon4x4]

na výkon, na kterej to stavíš je myslim měděný už docela potřeba
taky se pak dávaj silnější šrouby do hlavy aby udržely ten tlak...

normální, nebo dokonce dvě těsnění jsou opravdu nejslabším místem kde to může fouknout

Dost často se pak už nedávají "šrouby" ale štefty ARP

Vím co tam mám

BTW: Maraudere nech si i s štefty poslad rovnou i ořech na utažení. Celkem špatně se pak schání ořech na 10ti zubou hvězdičku v rozměru 1/2" naštěstí 13mm nebylo moc daleko a šlo to utáhnout.

[Taboo]

Dost často se pak už nedávají "šrouby" ale štefty ARP

In most cases, the ARP studs distort the hell out of the crank bore and the top of the cylinders after being torqued down to specs. Although I don't really like them (due to quite a few problems I've experienced with them), I'm not against their use (if someone really believes they're much better than the factory bolts and worth the money). However, if one wants to build the engine correctly while using the ARPs, it's highly recommended that he uses a torque plate when honing the cylinders and have the crank bore align-honed (if the ARPs are being used as main studs as well - and especially in the case of I6 engines ). Of course, when align-honing the block and honing the cylinders with the torque plate, the ARPs must be used in place of the original fasteners and torqued down to specs later used during the final assembly. If not done so, the bearings will never sit rights in the mains (which is going to lead to their premature wear and unsufficient heat transfer) and loss of compression, severe blow-by and increased oil consumption may be experienced as well. Just a word of advice...

[Beaver]

Dost často se pak už nedávají "šrouby" ale štefty ARP

In most cases, the ARP studs distort the hell out of the crank bore and the top of the cylinders after being torqued down to specs. Although I don't really like them (due to quite a few problems I've experienced with them), I'm not against their use (if someone really believes they're much better than the factory bolts and worth the money). However, if one wants to build the engine correctly while using the ARPs, it's highly recommended that he uses a torque plate when honing the cylinders and have the crank bore align-honed (if the ARPs are being used as main studs as well - and especially in the case of I6 engines ). Of course, when align-honing the block and honing the cylinders with the torque plate, the ARPs must be used in place of the original fasteners and torqued down to specs later used during the final assembly. If not done so, the bearings will never sit rights in the mains (which is going to lead to their premature wear and unsufficient heat transfer) and loss of compression, severe blow-by and increased oil consumption may be experienced as well. Just a word of advice...

Uniká mi souvislost klikovky v případě utažení hlavy na blok pomocí šteftů. Pravda, nevýhoda řadových šestiválců je jejich dlouhá hlava, pokud se pokroutí a srovná se jen dosedací plocha, pak by šly štefty (ale stejně tak i šrouby) mírně šejdrem, nejpravděpodobněji ty krajní, zároveň by logicky měla narůst komprese u prostředních válců. Když tak si mě nevšímejte, já občas překlad z enklíčtiny trochu zprzním

[leon4x4]

Dost často se pak už nedávají "šrouby" ale štefty ARP

In most cases, the ARP studs distort the hell out of the crank bore and the top of the cylinders after being torqued down to specs. Although I don't really like them (due to quite a few problems I've experienced with them), I'm not against their use (if someone really believes they're much better than the factory bolts and worth the money). However, if one wants to build the engine correctly while using the ARPs, it's highly recommended that he uses a torque plate when honing the cylinders and have the crank bore align-honed (if the ARPs are being used as main studs as well - and especially in the case of I6 engines ). Of course, when align-honing the block and honing the cylinders with the torque plate, the ARPs must be used in place of the original fasteners and torqued down to specs later used during the final assembly. If not done so, the bearings will never sit rights in the mains (which is going to lead to their premature wear and unsufficient heat transfer) and loss of compression, severe blow-by and increased oil consumption may be experienced as well. Just a word of advice...

Thanks, but i dont like to change all head bolts on each head down. Toyota is using torque to yelt (i am not sure about gramar). And the are destructed after instaling them ones. Sean from TorqueFreaks has adviced me that ARP studs, and i dont some reason why not trust him. But still, your experince is usefull information for me, thanx

[Taboo]

Dost často se pak už nedávají "šrouby" ale štefty ARP

In most cases, the ARP studs distort the hell out of the crank bore and the top of the cylinders after being torqued down to specs. Although I don't really like them (due to quite a few problems I've experienced with them), I'm not against their use (if someone really believes they're much better than the factory bolts and worth the money). However, if one wants to build the engine correctly while using the ARPs, it's highly recommended that he uses a torque plate when honing the cylinders and have the crank bore align-honed (if the ARPs are being used as main studs as well - and especially in the case of I6 engines ). Of course, when align-honing the block and honing the cylinders with the torque plate, the ARPs must be used in place of the original fasteners and torqued down to specs later used during the final assembly. If not done so, the bearings will never sit rights in the mains (which is going to lead to their premature wear and unsufficient heat transfer) and loss of compression, severe blow-by and increased oil consumption may be experienced as well. Just a word of advice...

Thanks, but i dont like to change all head bolts on each head down. Toyota is using torque to yelt (i am not sure about gramar). And the are destructed after instaling them ones. Sean from TorqueFreaks has adviced me that ARP studs, and i dont some reason why not trust him. But still, your experince is usefull information for me, thanx

The ARPs are the only alternative on Supras and if one uses the factory torque specs, no distortion of the cylinder walls takes place. However, the ARP head studs are commonly used to increase the torque in order to achieve a better head gasket seal, in which case the roundness of the top of the cylinder bore becomes heavily distorted as the torque of the studs increases. Sure, putting 10-20 ft.lbs. on the studs doesn't mostly do much, but if one increases the torque above 30 ft.lbs., the cylinder walls start to distort. Of course, not all engines are the same, though. Some have a tendency to distort more than others...

[leon4x4]

In most cases, the ARP studs distort the hell out of the crank bore and the top of the cylinders after being torqued down to specs. Although I don't really like them (due to quite a few problems I've experienced with them), I'm not against their use (if someone really believes they're much better than the factory bolts and worth the money). However, if one wants to build the engine correctly while using the ARPs, it's highly recommended that he uses a torque plate when honing the cylinders and have the crank bore align-honed (if the ARPs are being used as main studs as well - and especially in the case of I6 engines ). Of course, when align-honing the block and honing the cylinders with the torque plate, the ARPs must be used in place of the original fasteners and torqued down to specs later used during the final assembly. If not done so, the bearings will never sit rights in the mains (which is going to lead to their premature wear and unsufficient heat transfer) and loss of compression, severe blow-by and increased oil consumption may be experienced as well. Just a word of advice...

Thanks, but i dont like to change all head bolts on each head down. Toyota is using torque to yelt (i am not sure about gramar). And the are destructed after instaling them ones. Sean from TorqueFreaks has adviced me that ARP studs, and i dont some reason why not trust him. But still, your experince is usefull information for me, thanx

The ARPs are the only alternative on Supras and if one uses the factory torque specs, no distortion of the cylinder walls takes place. However, the ARP head studs are commonly used to increase the torque in order to achieve a better head gasket seal, in which case the roundness of the top of the cylinder bore becomes heavily distorted as the torque of the studs increases. Sure, putting 10-20 ft.lbs. on the studs doesn't mostly do much, but if one increases the torque above 30 ft.lbs., the cylinder walls start to distort. Of course, not all engines are the same, though. Some have a tendency to distort more than others...

Ohh now i know what you mean. ARP has an advice to use some good lubricant and mostly only 75% of OEM torq on OEM aplication. I dont remember the value but we definitly put something taht was not twice so much as stock torq
I think we used 110Nm (try to convert it into ft-lbs), we had some nut probles like i described. We needed to extend too, it was very hard to made this tool for us, but still faster as order it in US and wait next 2 weeks.

[Taboo]

Ohh now i know what you mean. ARP has an advice to use some good lubricant and mostly only 75% of OEM torq on OEM aplication. I dont remember the value but we definitly put something taht was not twice so much as stock torq
I think we used 110Nm (try to convert it into ft-lbs), we had some nut probles like i described. We needed to extend too, it was very hard to made this tool for us, but still faster as order it in US and wait next 2 weeks.

I think 110Nm is some 80 ft.lbs. We torque the suckers to 90-95 ft.lbs. , but I don't like using the studs namely for one particular reason:
In my opinion, applying such an amount of torque to a nut engaged to a stud by only a few threads represents a greater chance of stripping the threads in the process. I feel much better when applying the same amount of torque to a bolt engaged to much greater number of threads in the block, where the chances of stripping the threads are realitevely small. Since the bolts are of the same lenght, I know that all of them are going to protrude inside the block the same, unlike the studs that have a tendency to spin and screw themselves deeper inside the block as their nuts are being torqued down. I just don't like the idea... I also think ones gets a bit more accurate readings with bolts - as opposed to studs and nuts, plus, then there's the dilema of the lubricant being used that affects the readings as well. I'm such a picky little bitch when it comes to my engines, though .